Debra O’Shea – Mary Jane Denzer

Happy 80th Birthday, Neil!

If there is one designer who has been associated with Mary Jane Denzer in White Plains more than any other over the last 42 years, it is Neil Bieff. Indeed, so often has MJD featured his delicately textured creations, which both caress a woman’s silhouette and flow around her, that store co-owner Debra O’Shea has affectionately described him as a kind of “in-house designer”.

“There’s something about the timelessness and comfort of his clothes,” added O’Shea, who co-owns the store with Anastasia Cucinella. “We have women who wore his dresses to their children’s bar mitzvahs and bat mitzvahs, who now are coming in and looking at gowns for their children’s weddings.”

Bieff – who turns 80 on Jan. 23 – has kept clients coming back with his sculptural use of fabric and painterly approach to color. He begins with fine, textured fabrics, softly draped or cut on a bias to flatter as they accent a woman’s body – beaded chiffon, pebbly wool crepe with smooth satin, a hand-stitched ruffle here, hand embroidery or a band of sequin colors there.

But what is truly remarkable is the way he uses colors as washes – layered to give the design an opalescent quality; contrasted to heighten tension (much as Vincent van Gogh would juxtapose red and green, what he called “the colors of passion,” or blue and yellow); or gradated so that one color subtly blends into another for an ombré effect.

A native New Yorker based in Ossining, Neil honed his skill with and love of color at Syracuse University, where he studied painting, and abroad in Florence and Paris. (His love of sequins and knowledge of hand embroidery are the results of time spent in India.) He started his fashion career as assistant to couturier Arnold Scaasi, then went on to design suits and coats for Dan Millstein. Neil’s own label was born at his Genesis store on Madison Avenue in Manhattan, where yielding matte jerseys would be a bellwether for the shapely chiffons, velvets and wools of his later creations.

A career highlight was also a personal one – designing a bridal gown and dresses for the wedding of son Gwyn to Ikbal Bozkaya in Istanbul in April 2019. For this, he created a sleeveless V-necked bridal gown that was “a very shapely, very diaphanous mélange of different beads, sequins and alabaster stones on white silk chiffon over white silk charmeuse,” he told WAG magazine.

For the after-party, Neil made the bride a short silver halter dress with a sheer back, antique silver sequins, charcoal silk and trapunto stitching (a kind of quilting technique). “It was very young, very sexy,” he said.

Another Neil design saw Ikbal in a cap-sleeved black print dress, trimmed with black satin, whose V neckline and U-shaped back echoed her bridal dress.

No appreciation of Neil would be complete without talking about his deep relationship with Mary Jane Denzer – the store and the woman who founded it. He has called MJD “one of the best stores in the country.”

As for its meticulous founder, Neil recalled his first encounter did not go well as she proclaimed his choice of style and color for one client “a disaster.” But Neil persevered.

“After that, we often collaborated together. Mary Jane did have impeccable taste and an unerring eye. I would like to think we learned from each other, and it always ended up benefiting the client.”

Mary Jane, alas, is no longer with us, having passed in 2015. But her name lives on in the eponymous store, and Neil is set to celebrate the big 80.

So Happy Birthday, Neil – MJD’s “in-house designer” and dear friend.

Tags: Neil Bieff, Mary Jane Denzer, Debra O’Shea, Anastasia Cucinella, Dan Millstein, Istanbul, Florence, Paris, New York, Madison Avenue, Manhattan, Genesis, Syracuse University

Angela Caputi Giuggiù’s playful designs

A gift from the fashion gods: Debra O’Shea meets the charmed and charming Angela Caputi, whose designs live up to their branding and her nickname, Giuggiù.

What do fashion icon Iris Apfel, Queen Mathilde of Belgium and Queen Máxima of the Netherlands have in common with us at Mary Jane Denzer?

We’re all fans of Angela Caputi and her fabulous jewelry, whose designs in rich, lacquered resin bridge the figurative and the abstract, the classical and the modern and, most important of all, the fine and the faux in haute couture costume jewelry.

Ropes of beads as big as red seedless grapes held together by a curling crocodile clasp; abstract floral earrings that evoke the legendary cities of Samarkand and Istanbul; pendants that feature a bust of Michelangelo’s “David” – a signature work of her hometown of Florence – turquoise Buddhas or crabs and scarabs that conjure pre-Columbian and Egyptian designs: Caputi’s pieces live up to their branding and her nickname, Giuggiù, which can be loosely translated, she has said, as playful.

Our selections include chunky bracelets and long necklaces with tassles and beading, which marry the curving and the angular in dark, jeweled colors.

Giuggiù jewelry has been designed from the company’s beginning in 1975 by Caputi herself in a workshop in the 17^th-century Palazzetto Medici on Via Santo Spirito – a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, the bridge that figures so dramatically in “O mio babbino caro,” a signature soprano aria from Giacomo Puccini’s “Gianni Schicchi.” Working with synthetic Italian materials alongside a small group that includes family, Caputi creates pieces inspired by American films of the first half of the 20^th century that are popularly priced and yet have been showcased in such august spaces as The Metropolitan Museum of Art in Manhattan and the Costume Gallery in Florence.

A champion of women, Caputi designs for the independent, sophisticated woman that is her client but shrewdly also keeps their men in mind.

“Men appreciate the materials I use and find the jewelry designs very interesting,” she told The Florentine in 2007. “They fall in love with the pieces almost immediately and give Giuggiù pieces as gifts. It is a personal and intimate line, because the pieces are one of a kind.”

We can’t but agree. The pieces make a major fashion statement yet are incredibly lightweight – another fascinating seeming contradiction. Perhaps that’s why whenever MJD owners Anastasia Cucinella and Debra O’Shea are in Paris during Fashion Week, their first stop is the Premiere Classe accessories trade show in the Jardin des Tuileries to see what new treasures Caputi has created for the season.

During a trip to Florence last October, O’Shea had a Caputi treat of a more personal nature. While out shopping, she came across the Caputi boutique. (There are two Angela Caputi Giuggiù boutiques in Florence, along with one each in Milan, Forte dei Marmi, Rome and Paris.) Of course, O’Shea went inside to say hello as well as to take pictures for MJD’s Instagram account. That evening, she and her husband celebrated her birthday by dining al fresco at the Hotel Savoy. Just at the moment she was posting the pictures, she noticed Caputi at an adjoining table. It was such a coincidence – or kismet? – that she couldn’t resist saying “Hello” and showing her the photographs. Caputi was charmed and charming as she posed for a photo with O’Shea – a birthday gift from the fashion gods.

Floral Tributes

“April showers bring May flowers,” but they also bring April blooms as well – rapturous, Wordsworth-y daffodils, vibrant tulips, filigree hyacinths, blazing forsythias and comforting pansies in velvety indigos and creamy whites. And that’s not including a pink-white array of apple, cherry, plum and magnolia blossoms.

But not all the blooms are rooted in the earth as fashion continues to rival Mother Nature’s glory with a riot of floral dresses. Indeed, flower prints and embellished floral appliqués represent the most important trend of the season, say Anastasia Cucinella and Debra O’Shea, co-owners of Mary Jane Denzer.

From the office to the cocktail party, women are donning Erdem, whose explosion of black flowers is silhouetted against sexy, sophisticated pastel designs; Marchesa, whose florals cascade from diaphanous ruffles; and Pamella Roland, whose big, bold blooms splash across sweeping skirts. Meanwhile, Valli girls – as in Giambattista – strut their stuff in blossom-decked minis and cropped jackets, and florals climb the layered, fitted creations of Jason Wu. These are just some of the flower-powered designers you’ll find at MJD.

Florals are no longer just for the soft seasons, though. On their recent buying trip to Paris, Cucinella and O’Shea observed that the trend continues strongly through the fall. (Credit designers like Dolce & Gabbana and Prada, who helped introduce florals on dark backdrops for winter several years ago.)

The late-year floral finds expression in the work of Peter Pilotto, a 12-year-old English fashion house headed by the Austrian-Italian Pilotto and his partner, the Belgian-Peruvian Christopher De Vos, that’s a new addition to MJD’s roster of couturiers. (The relatively low-profile label made a splash last October with its striking wedding dress for Princess Eugenie, which celebrated her curves and scoliosis scar with a fitted, angular bodice that included a plunging V back.

In a sense, that dress crystallizes the Pilotto style for fall – tailored yet feminine clothes with prominent shoulders, cinched waists and flowing skirts that flirt with the 1940s and range in evocations from Hungarian Zsolnay ceramics to mid-century Pop art.

Autumn leaves drift from these creations. But autumn is blissfully still a dream away and Pilotto’s pre-fall florals, which you’ll find at MJD, are perfect for those summer parties that will soon be filling your calendar.